Discover the Best Anti-Aging Treatments to Boost Collagen

Question from skin therapist Priscilla, from Derma Moments

As a skin therapist, you often deal with anti-aging treatments and their effects on collagen production. These questions were asked to dermatologist Dr. Francis Wu. There are so many different treatment options, such as connective tissue massage, microneedling, HIFU or injections like Profhilo? What is the difference in how these treatments stimulate collagen production and activate fibroblasts?

Thank you for your questions: let’s delve deeper into this issue and explore the various collagen types and treatment methods.

But first, who produces collagen in the skin?

Fibroblasts are the key cells responsible for the production of collagen in the skin. They produce various types of collagen, of which type I and type III are the most important. Type I collagen gives the skin its firmness and is the most common type in adult skin. Type III collagen is mainly found in younger skin and provides elasticity and support, but over time is converted to type I collagen.

As we age, the activity of fibroblasts decreases, leading to a reduction in the production of both types of collagen. This results in the loss of firmness and elasticity of the skin, which becomes visible as wrinkles and sagging skin. Anti-aging treatments focus on stimulating fibroblasts to produce more collagen, allowing the skin to retain its youthful firmness and structure.

Types of Collagen and Their Function

Collagen is a protein that is crucial for the firmness and elasticity of the skin. There are different types of collagen, of which the most important for the skin are:

1. Type I Collagen: This is the most common collagen in the skin. It provides firmness and decreases as we age, which contributes to wrinkle formation and skin sagging.
2. Type III Collagen: This type of collagen is more common in younger skin. It provides elasticity and is converted into type I over time, especially after treatments aimed at skin rejuvenation.
3. Type IV Collagen: This type is found in the basal layer of the skin and plays a role in cell adhesion. Although it is less often mentioned in anti-aging treatments, it is important for the overall structure of the skin.

Anti-Aging Treatments and How They Stimulate Collagen

Each type of anti-aging treatment works differently on the fibroblasts, the cells that produce collagen, depending on the stimulus given.

1. Connective Tissue Massage (Weekly Treatment)

Connective tissue massage focuses on stimulating the skin through mechanical pressure, which activates fibroblasts to produce type I collagen. The physical stimulation makes the skin firmer and improves the texture.

Cytokines: In this treatment, TGF-β (Transforming Growth Factor-beta) is stimulated, which prompts fibroblasts to produce new collagen, specifically type I.

2. Microneedling (Every 4-6 weeks)

Microneedling works by creating small wounds in the skin, which initiates a healing process. Initially, this stimulates type III collagen, which is later converted into type I collagen for long-lasting firmness.

Cytokines: With microneedling, inflammatory mediators such as Interleukin-1 (IL-1), IL-6, and TNF-α (Tumor Necrosis Factor-alpha) are released. These play a key role in activating fibroblasts and initiating the collagen repair process.

Learn more about Microneedling for scars

3. HIFU (High-Intensity Focused Ultrasound)

HIFU works on deeper skin layers by applying thermal energy, which provides intense stimulation of type I collagen. This treatment is mainly focused on long-term skin tightening.

Cytokines: The heat of HIFU activates Heat Shock Proteins (HSPs) and increases the production of TGF-β, resulting in deep collagen remodeling.

4. Profhilo (Bioremodelling Injections)

Profhilo stimulates both type I and type III collagen. The hydrating effect of hyaluronic acid in Profhilo helps to activate fibroblasts, without the inflammatory response that occurs with other treatments such as microneedling.

Cytokines: Profhilo stimulates collagen production mainly through hydration and regeneration, without strong inflammatory responses.

How are fibroblasts activated?

Each treatment sends different signals to the fibroblasts, depending on the type of stimulus:

Mechanical stimuli (such as with connective tissue massage) cause a mild activation of fibroblasts, resulting in a gradual collagen buildup.

Wondheling (as in microneedling) gives a strong boost to fibroblasts via inflammatory reactions, causing them to quickly start collagen production.

Thermal stimulation (such as HIFU) uses heat to stimulate collagen production in deeper skin layers.

How is the Anti-Aging Skincare from Iconic Elements

When you look at anti-aging skincare, such as a cream with vitamin C, E, and ferulic acid, and a firming booster serum with bakuchiol, cyclopeptide-5, and white tea extract, you focus on stimulating collagen production in various ways to combat skin aging.

Here is how each of these ingredients works on the collagen in the skin:

Vitamin C, Vitamin E and Ferulic Acid (Anti-Aging Cream):

The Anti-Aging cream works primarily by preventing collagen damage and stimulating new collagen production through antioxidants.

• Vitamin C: This is a powerful antioxidant that not only protects the skin from harmful free radicals, but also directly stimulates the production of collagen. Vitamin C plays an essential role in the collagen production process by supporting enzymes necessary for collagen synthesis.
• Vitamin E: Acts as a protective antioxidant that helps reduce oxidative damage to skin cells. This protects existing collagen fibers from breakdown by free radicals.
• Ferulic Acid: This is an antioxidant that works synergistically with Vitamins C and E to reduce damage from UV radiation and protect the skin from further collagen breakdown. By limiting oxidative stress, collagen degradation is inhibited and the skin retains its firmness.

2. Bakuchiol, Cyclopeptide-5, and White Tea Extract (Firming Booster Serum):

The firming booster serum primarily focuses on actively stimulating fibroblasts to produce collagen and make the skin firmer.

• Bakuchiol: This is a plant-based alternative to retinol, known for its ability to boost collagen production without the irritating side effects of retinol. Bakuchiol helps firm the skin and reduce wrinkles by promoting the production of both type I and type III collagen.
• Cyclopeptide-5: Peptides are chains of amino acids that act as messengers in the skin, activating fibroblasts to produce more collagen. Cyclopeptide-5 specifically targets skin firmness by supporting the production of new collagen, contributing to a tighter skin structure.
• White Tea Extract: Rich in antioxidants, white tea extract helps to protect the skin from free radicals that can accelerate the breakdown of collagen. In addition, it supports the skin structure and contributes to a healthier skin environment, which indirectly prevents collagen damage.

Together, these products provide a powerful approach to improving collagen structure, strengthening the skin, and reducing wrinkles.

For optimal use of the anti-aging cream and the firming booster serum, follow these steps:

1. Clean your skin: Start by thoroughly cleaning your face to remove dirt and makeup.
2. Firming Booster Serum:

• Apply 1-2 pumps of the serum to your face and neck.
• Massage the serum gently with upward movements.
• Let the serum fully absorb, wait about 1-2 minutes.

1. Anti-Aging Cream:

• Then apply a thin layer of the anti-aging cream over the serum.
• Gently massage the cream until it is completely absorbed by the skin.

Use both products daily, both in the morning and in the evening, for the best results.

The choice for a treatment depends on the desired type of collagen and the overall skin condition of the patient. By choosing the right treatment and products, you as a skin therapist can achieve targeted and effective results for your clients.