New nanoneedling, what is the difference with microneedling?

In skin rejuvenation and improving skin texture, nano-needling and micro-needling are popular techniques. Despite their similarities, these treatments have unique features that are important to understand before making a choice. In this blog, from a dermatological perspective, we discuss the differences, benefits, and which skin issues benefit most from each treatment.

Both techniques stimulate collagen production and natural skin repair by creating microscopic channels. The difference lies in the depth and intensity: nano-needling works superficially and mainly promotes the absorption of active ingredients for subtle skin improvement, while microneedling penetrates deeper and is aimed at addressing deeper skin issues such as scars and wrinkles.

Nanoneedling works on a very superficial level, with nanoneedles penetrating the skin up to 0.25 mm. This treatment creates nano-channels in the upper layer of the skin (epidermis), allowing for rapid absorption of active ingredients from serums. Nanoneedling subtly stimulates collagen production without affecting the deeper layers of the skin. This makes it an excellent choice for:

  • Fine lines
  • Superficial pigment spots
  • Dull or gray skin
  • Skin aging and mild acne scarring

Thanks to its mild action, nanoneedling is painless and does not require anesthesia. It can be performed regularly (even weekly), without damaging the skin. The short recovery time also makes it suitable for people with busy schedules who want a quick skin refresh.

Microneedling on the other hand, works deeper, into the dermis (bottom skin layer), and strongly stimulates collagen production by the fibroblasts. This makes it ideal for the treatment of:

  • Deep wrinkles and coarse lines
  • Persistent pigmentation
  • Acne scars and stretch marks
  • Skin sagging

Microneedling usually requires some recovery time, depending on the depth and intensity of the treatment. This method can cause slight discomfort, especially with deeper treatments, but offers long-lasting and intensive improvement of the skin structure.

Microneelding, Nanoneelding

Main Differences and Decision Aid

Aspect Nanoneedling Microneedling
Diepte Tot 0,25 mm (epidermis) Dieper in de dermis
Effectiviteit Oppervlakkige huidverbetering, absorptie Structurele huidverbetering, collageenherstel
Geschikte problemen Fijne lijntjes, lichte pigmentatie Diepe rimpels, acnelittekens, pigmentatie
Pijn en comfort Pijnloos, geen verdoving nodig Mogelijke pijnsensatie, verdoving soms nodig
Hersteltijd Enkele uren 1-3 dagen afhankelijk van intensiteit
Frequentie Wekelijks of maandelijks Eens per 4-6 weken
  1. Superficial skin problems such as light wrinkles, superficial spots, and a dull complexion benefit from nanoneedling. This treatment can be applied more frequently, is virtually painless, and promotes the absorption of active ingredients from serums.
  2. Deeper skin problems such as acne scars, coarse pores, and stubborn pigmentation spots can be better treated with microneedling. The more intensive penetration into the skin ensures deep stimulation of collagen and elastin, which helps with long-term improvement of skin structure.

After both treatments, it is important to optimally care for and protect the skin to support the healing process. Iconic Elements offers a number of ideal products for this:

  • Calming Cream
    After nano-needling and microneedling, the skin can be red and sensitive. The Calming Cream from Iconic Elements immediately soothes the skin, reduces redness, and prevents irritations. This cream contains anti-irritant ingredients that support the healing process and protect the skin from harmful external influences.
  • Natural Moisturizer Cream
    For deep hydration without feeling heavy, the Natural Moisturizer Cream is perfect. This cream contains a triple hydration action that provides the skin with long-lasting moisturizing ingredients without a greasy or heavy feeling. This helps restore the skin barrier and keeps the skin supple and hydrated.
  • Targeted Pigment Serum
    For reducing pigmentation spots, Iconic Elements offers the Targeted Pigment Serum, ideal for use after microneedling. This serum focuses on brightening dark spots and supports the skin in maintaining an even complexion. The serum contains active ingredients that help break down excess melanin.
  • Firming Booster Serum
    The Firming Booster Serum stimulates collagen production and ensures a tighter, firmer skin structure. This serum is particularly effective after microneedling, when the skin needs deeper support to regain its firmness and elasticity.
  • SPF 50+ Sunscreen
    After microneedling, it is essential to protect the skin well from the sun. Iconic Elements’ sunscreen offers high UV protection without clogging the pores. This prevents hyperpigmentation and other damage from UV radiation after treatment.

These products are available in the Iconic Elements Webshop.

Step 1: Cleansing – Cleansing is crucial for a clean base and prepares the skin for active ingredients.

Step 2: Targeted Pigment Serum – This serum helps to tackle pigmentation spots by applying it directly to problem areas. It works throughout the day to gradually fade pigmentation.

Step 3: SPF30 Tinted Mineral Sunscreen – The sunscreen protects against UV rays, which can worsen pigmentation. By combining the pigment serum and SPF, it prevents new spots from forming while reducing existing ones.

Nanoneedling, Micronneedling

Step 1: Thorough Cleaning – A thorough cleaning removes SPF and impurities that have accumulated throughout the day.

Step 2: Firming Booster Serum – In the evening, the serum supports the natural skin recovery process and stimulates collagen production, resulting in firmer and more elastic skin.

Step 3: Calming Cream – This step soothes and calms the skin, which strengthens the skin barrier and minimizes irritation after using active ingredients.

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Step 3B: Natural Moisturizer Cream – Finish with a rich moisturizing cream to restore the skin barrier and deeply hydrate the skin overnight.

By using these products in a structured day and night routine, you enhance the results of nano-needling and microneedling, while protecting and supporting the skin during the recovery process.

Yes, the difference in depth between microneedling and nanoneedling means that certain skin types respond better to one technique than the other. Microneedling is suitable for medium to dark skin types in the treatment of acne scars or deep wrinkles, as it provides deep stimulation that contributes to a balanced skin structure. Nanoneedling is very suitable for more sensitive skin or light skin with few scars, as it is less invasive and does not cause an inflammatory response, which is beneficial for people with sensitive skin.

Microneedling and nano-needling can both address pigmentation issues, but in different ways. Microneedling can treat deeper pigmentation spots, such as melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, by stimulating the regeneration of the lower skin layers. Nanoneedling works superficially, which helps in evening out skin tone and reducing light pigmentation spots without risk of excessive inflammation, which is important for pigment-sensitive skin types.

Home versions of both treatments are available, but there is a significant difference in effectiveness and safety. Nanoneedling at home can provide mild results with safe devices, but works best in a clinical setting for more visible results. Microneedling is discouraged for home use, as untrained usage can lead to damage to the skin barrier, scarring, and even infection. Professional treatments by skin therapists ensure better control and safer, long-term results.

With nanoneedling, you often see a fresh, rejuvenated skin immediately after the treatment, while deeper improvements gradually become visible after about a week. Microneedling usually has a slightly longer recovery time and the results become visible after several weeks, as the body needs time to build up collagen and elastin. Multiple sessions ensure optimal results, especially for severe skin problems such as scars and deep wrinkles.

Yes, it’s normal for the skin to feel dry and flaky after both microneedling and nanoneedling. Both treatments create small channels in the skin, which can cause temporary moisture loss and can lead to slight flaking. A good moisturizer and soothing products help support the recovery process. Hydrating products such as hyaluronic acid and ceramides are ideal for restoring and making the skin smooth again after a treatment.

Picture of Dr. Francis Wu

Dr. Francis Wu

Dr. Francis Wu, een vooraanstaande dermatoloog, is de drijvende kracht achter Iconic Elements. Hij heeft sinds 2004 zijn expertise ingezet om een veilige en effectieve huidverzorgingslijn te creëren, geschikt voor zowel gezonde huid als huidproblemen. Iconic Elements, opgericht in 2016, is de eerste brede skincare lijn in Nederland ontwikkeld door een dermatoloog. Als medisch specialist streeft Dr. Wu naar het bevorderen van het welzijn van mensen door hoogwaardige en effectieve huidverzorgingsproducten te bieden. De proefdiervrije en vegan producten vermijden schadelijke chemicaliën en bevatten natuurlijke ingrediënten.
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