Overexfoliating: Why it’s Bad for Your Skin
A healthy skin barrier is important for healthy skin. Yet many people make the mistake of cleansing their skin too often or over-exfoliating, which can severely disrupt the delicate balance of the skin. This can lead to dehydration, irritation, and even oxidative damage, a process in which harmful oxygen molecules (free radicals) damage the skin cells. This accelerates premature skin aging, which manifests itself in fine lines, a dull complexion, and loss of elasticity. But what exactly happens in the skin when you cleanse or exfoliate too much, and how can you properly care for your skin without disturbing the natural balance?
Your Skin Barrier and Key Functions
The skin barrier works together with the skin acidity (pH value) to keep the skin healthy and protected. The skin naturally has a slightly acidic pH of about 4.5 to 5.5. This acidity is important for various functions:
Maintenance of the skin barrier: A healthy pH supports the function of ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol, the fats that hold the skin cells together and prevent moisture from escaping.
Protection against bacteria and fungi: The acidic pH inhibits the growth of harmful microorganisms that can cause skin infections and irritations.
Support for enzymes in the skin: Some enzymes that assist in renewing and repairing the skin function best at a slightly acidic pH.
When the pH gets out of balance, the skin barrier can weaken. This can lead to moisture loss, sensitive skin, and an increased risk of inflammation and irritation.
What happens when over-exfoliating?
Exfoliating, or removing dead skin cells, can help make the skin look smoother and fresher. But with excessive use, it can damage the protective lipid layer and even harm healthy skin cells. This disrupts the skin’s natural balance and can cause various problems:
Loss of moisture: The skin may not retain moisture as well, leading to dehydration and flaking. This process is known as trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL).
Increased sensitivity: Due to a weakened skin barrier, irritants and allergens can more easily penetrate, which can lead to redness, itching and inflammation.
Reduced self-healing: The skin has more difficulty in regenerating, causing minor damages such as micro-cracks to heal less quickly and the skin becomes more vulnerable.
Is there a correlation between skin barrier and oxidative damage
When the skin barrier weakens, the skin not only becomes drier and more sensitive, but also less able to protect itself against oxidative stress. This is a process where free radicals – unstable molecules that cause damage to cells – harm the skin. Free radicals can originate from both outside and inside the body.
External Factors (from outside)
Air pollution: Harmful substances such as particulate matter and exhaust gases promote the formation of free radicals.
UV radiation (sunlight): Stimulates the production of free radicals, which breaks down collagen and causes pigmentation spots.
Harmful chemicals: Ingredients such as alcohol in cosmetics or smoke from cigarettes can increase oxidative stress in the skin.
Internal Factors (from within)
In addition to environmental factors, endogenous processes can also contribute to oxidative stress:
Inflammations: When the skin barrier is damaged, low-grade inflammations often occur, which produce extra free radicals. This happens, for example, with eczema, acne, and rosacea.
Hormonal fluctuations: A disruption in hormones (such as during stress, menstruation, or menopause) can increase sebum production and inflammatory responses in the skin.
Poor diet: Food high in sugar and processed fats increases oxidative stress, while antioxidants from vegetables and fruits help to protect the skin.
Sleep deprivation and chronic stress: Prolonged stress increases the hormone cortisol, which weakens the skin barrier and stimulates inflammation.
Disrupted microbiome: The skin contains good bacteria that support the barrier. In case of imbalance, for example due to excessive cleansing or antibiotics, the skin becomes more vulnerable to irritation and infections.
Domino Effect
Over-exfoliating can cause a chain reaction that further disrupts skin balance. Exfoliation removes dead skin cells, which in itself is beneficial for a fresh appearance. But if it happens too often or too aggressively, the skin barrier gets damaged. This means that the skin is less able to retain moisture (increased TEWL) and protect itself from external influences.
As soon as the skin barrier is weakened, the skin becomes more susceptible to irritants, allergens, and oxidative stress. Oxidative stress occurs when there is an excess of free radicals – unstable molecules that cause damage to cells. Because the skin barrier functions less effectively, the amount of free radicals in the skin increases, setting in motion an accelerated aging process.
How do you prevent damage from over-exfoliation?
A healthy skin starts with gentle care that cleanses, exfoliates, and protects without disrupting the natural skin barrier. Excessive cleansing or exfoliation can dry out the skin and make it more susceptible to irritation and damage from free radicals. How you prevent this depends on your skin type.
1. Choose a gentle cleanser that suits your skin type
Not every skin has the same cleansing needs. A cleanser that is too aggressive can unnecessarily dry out the skin or disrupt the balance of sebum production.
Normal skin: Choose a mild, pH-balanced cleanser without sulfates or alcohol. Cleaning twice a day is usually sufficient.
Oily skin: Use a light gel or foam cleanser that removes excess sebum without drying out the skin. Avoid harsh cleansers that damage the skin barrier, as this can lead to an overproduction of sebum.
Sensitive skin: Use a cream- or oil-based cleanser that hydrates and soothes. Cleaning once a day, for example, only in the evening, may be sufficient to not burden the skin.
2. Exfoliate in Moderation and Adapt to Your Skin Type
Exfoliating helps remove dead skin cells and renew the skin, but excessive use can weaken the skin barrier.
Normal skin: Using a gentle chemical exfoliant such as AHA’s (glycolic or lactic acid) 1-2 times a week is enough to keep the skin smooth and glowing.
Oily skin: Can exfoliate more often, up to 2-3 times per week, with BHAs such as salicylic acid to tackle excess sebum and clogged pores.
Sensitive skin: Exfoliate a maximum of 1 time per week, preferably with a mild PHA (like gluconolactone) or enzymatic exfoliant, to prevent irritation. Avoid physical scrubs, which can damage the skin.
3. Repair and Hydrate the Skin Barrier
A well-hydrated skin is better able to withstand external influences and recovers faster from damage or irritation. To optimally support the skin, it’s important to use a moisturizer that strengthens the skin barrier and counteracts moisture loss. This can be done with ingredients that naturally occur in the skin and contribute to a healthy moisture balance.
Ceramides are essential lipids that reinforce the skin barrier and help retain moisture, thus keeping the skin protected from dehydration and harmful external influences. Fatty acids also play a significant role in maintaining healthy skin. They contribute to the formation of the protective skin layer and reduce moisture loss. There are different types of fatty acids with unique benefits:
- Omega-3 fatty acids (α-linolenic acid, EPA, DHA) → Promote skin repair and reduce inflammation. Found in flaxseed oil, chia seed oil, and algae oil.
- Omega-6 fatty acids (linoleic acid, γ-linolenic acid) → Support the skin barrier and help retain moisture. Present in evening primrose oil, borage oil, sunflower oil, and safflower oil.
In addition to ceramides and fatty acids, hyaluronic acid is a potent moisture binder that attracts and retains water in the skin, keeping it hydrated, supple, and resilient.
4. Protect the skin against free radicals
Free radicals are unstable molecules that cause damage to skin cells and contribute to skin aging. They are formed under the influence of UV radiation, air pollution, and stress, which accelerate processes such as collagen breakdown and cell damage. To counteract these harmful effects, the use of antioxidants plays an important role.
Vitamin C helps to combat oxidative stress by neutralizing free radicals and simultaneously supports the production of collagen, which is essential for firm and resilient skin. Vitamin E acts as an additional protective barrier against damage from free radicals and helps strengthen the skin barrier. Furthermore, niacinamide has a calming effect on the skin, reduces redness, and provides protection against harmful external influences such as pollution and inflammatory responses. By incorporating antioxidants into your skincare routine, the skin is better protected against premature aging and remains healthier and more radiant for longer.
FAQ: Over-Exfoliating
How do I know if my skin barrier is damaged?
Symptoms of a damaged skin barrier include:
- Redness and irritation.
- Dryness and flaking.
- A tight and tugging feeling after cleansing.
- You notice an increased sensitivity to products or environmental factors.
Can I restore my skin barrier?
Yes, the skin barrier can repair itself with the right products and a careful routine. Use restorative moisturizers with ceramides and avoid harsh cleansers.
How often should I exfoliate?
This depends on your skin type, but for most people, 1-2 times a week is enough. Over-exfoliating can damage and dry out the skin.
How do antioxidants protect my skin?
Antioxidants neutralize free radicals that cause damage to skin cells. This helps to prevent premature aging and protect the skin barrier.
Are natural cleansers better for the skin?
Natural cleansers can be gentle and effective, but it is important to pay attention to the pH value and ingredients that do not irritate the skin barrier.
In other words
Frequent cleansing and over-exfoliation can inadvertently weaken the skin barrier. This often leads to dehydration, irritation, and oxidative stress. Therefore, healthy skin does not start with more products, but with the right choices: gentle cleansing, effective hydration, and support with antioxidants.
Less is often more – especially when it comes to skincare.
The Iconic Elements Cleansingmilk Step 1 and Cleansinglotion Step 2 were developed with that principle in mind.
Gentle, skin-neutral (pH5), free from microplastics, BPS or BPA – and tailored to maintaining a strong skin barrier.
How do you use it?
Use Cleansingmilk Step 1: Apply to dry skin and gently massage to remove makeup and impurities. Then remove with a damp, soft cloth or rinse with lukewarm water.
Use Cleansinglotion Step 2: Apply to a cotton pad and gently wipe over the face to restore the skin’s pH. Rinsing is not necessary.
What’s next: Wait about 30 seconds for the lotion to be absorbed. After that, you can immediately apply your serum or cream.
A small step in your routine, with a big impact on the resilience of your skin.
