Wrinkles
Wrinkles are an inevitable consequence of aging and make us look older. The formation of wrinkles happens in the second layer of the skin, the dermis, which mainly contains proteins called collagen and elastin. Both of these proteins give the skin its firmness and elasticity. As we age, the cell repair mechanism slows down and the network of elastin and collagen begins to break down. This initially creates fine lines and eventually deep folds.
On this page you will find the following information about wrinkles:
- What are wrinkles
- Causes of wrinkles
- How can you prevent wrinkles?
- How to care for skin with fine lines and wrinkles
- Tips if you have wrinkles
- The best products against premature skin aging
Dr. Francis Wu on wrinkles
Below explains Dr. Francis Wu briefly about the complaints, causes and solutions
A wrinkle is defined as a permanent or temporary fold in the surface of the skin
One wrinkle line is not the other. Wrinkles can be divided into static and dynamic wrinkles.
- Static Wrinkles: These wrinkles are always present even though there is no mimic movement of the person. The combination of repetitive movement of the underlying muscle and a decrease in collagen and elastin cause this wrinkle shape. Also by reduction of fat tissue and shrinkage of underlying bone structures, such as bones around the eyes and cheeks. Together, this causes skin slackening and wrinkles. The older the person, the more static wrinkles.
- Dynamic wrinkles: are wrinkles that are only visible with movement of the underlying muscle. Examples are frown lines, forehead wrinkles, crow’s feet, Smoker’s lines. These wrinkles can occur at a young age.
The speed of the aging process is only partly determined by our DNA (biological age). This means that the aging process is largely caused by environmental factors and lifestyle. One of the key processes for accelerated extrinsic aging is Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) or free radicals that originate in the skin. These invisible free radicals have a damaging effect on our elastic and collagen fibers in the dermis (deep skin layer) resulting in fine lines and wrinkles.
The most common causes are: age, repetitive facial expression, UV rays from the sun or tanning bed, smoking, alcohol, sleep deprivation, air pollution and poor eating habits.
We cannot stop the natural aging process of the skin and body. However, studies have shown that there are several rules to prevent skin aging and thus help prevent the development of wrinkles:
- Sun protection against UVA and UVB rays.
- Quit smoking
- Minimize alcohol consumption
- Eat a variety of foods with extra fruits, vegetables and nuts.
- Regular physical exercise, 30 minutes of walking a day is already good.
- Cleanse your skin 2 x a day with a mild cleanser. Air pollution can lead to premature skin aging.
- Peeling makes your skin look fresher
- Use the right skin care products.
Did you know that UVA sun rays cause the most wrinkles?
In the Netherlands, UVA rays are present in equal intensity throughout the year, while UVB rays are strongest in the spring and summer period. Especially UVA rays cause free radicals in the dermis, which makes you develop wrinkles faster. UVA mnemonic, remember the 3 A’s: Aging of the skin, Asymptomatic (no sunburn), Always present (year round)
Link Unilateral Dermatoheliosis – unilateral wrinkling of the face due to UVA rays
The basic care for skin with fine lines and wrinkles are: Sun protection, daily skin cleansing and application of corrective serums or creams.
Skin care ingredients
Over the years, people have searched for the secret of eternal youth, but a perfect elixir has not yet been developed. However, technology has made significant progress in skin-improving products. For example, creams containing vitamin A acid or tretinoin can rejuvenate the skin and are only available with a doctor’s prescription. The disadvantage of tretinoin is that it can cause skin irritation. An alternative is Bakuchiol, it works just like vitamin A, without the redness and burning.
Creams with vitamin C and E combination have a stronger anti-oxidant effect than when they are contained separately in a product. Due to the synergistic effect of vitamins C & E, the anti-oxidant effect can be enhanced by a factor of 4.
Anti-aging creams with Coenzyme Q10, Green tea extract, Alpha Lipoic aAcid also have a wrinkle-reducing effect. For maintenance after a treatment such as injectables, rejuvanation laser and if you have light wrinkles and fine folds, anti-aging creams are suitable.
Injectables
For existing wrinkles, injectables such as botulinum toxin and hyaluronic acid fillers in combination with anti-aging/sunscreen creams are useful. Botulinum toxin is suitable for mimic dynamic wrinkles such as frown lines, forehead wrinkles and crow’s feet.
Botulinum toxin is a natural protein and is used to temporarily reduce certain muscle activity. This smooths out wrinkles and creases. The effect of botulinum toxin is noticeable within a few days after the treatment and is optimally visible after 2 weeks. The duration of action and the result differ per person, but in general botulinum toxin works for 4 to 6 months. The treatment can then be repeated without difficulty. After multiple treatments, the effect may be longer.
Fillers with a natural and degradable hyaluronic acid. Fillers are fillers and are injected into the skin in the form of a clear gel with a fine needle. In addition to softening deep wrinkles and folds, deep acne scars, sagging skin and sun-damaged skin can also be significantly improved. ContaContour improvement such as lips and nose, hyaluron filler is also suitable.our verbetering zoals lippen en neus is hyaluron filler ook geschikt. The results are long-lasting, but not permanent because the hyaluronic acid is slowly broken down by the body. The result of a filler treatment can last 6-12 months. For lips keep 3 months.
Peelings and laser
In addition to a cream treatment and injectables, there are other options to combat wrinkles. Other wrinkle treatments are briefly described below:
- Chemical peeling is used to superficially renew the epidermis and the superficial dermis (dermis) with a chemical agent. This is suitable for treating fine wrinkles. Substances used are trichloroacetic acid (TCA), phenol and glycolic acid (AHA, alpha hydroxy acids). The skin is first degreased and then TCA, AHA or phenol is applied to the skin using a cotton swab or gauze. A disadvantage is the risk of pigment shift in the skin, often this is temporary.
- Mechanical peeling or microdermabrasion is suitable for fine to medium wrinkles. The superficial epidermis is abraded, abrasion. The skin is locally ground under vacuum by means of a continuous stream of micro-crystals (aluminium oxide). The skin is peeled precisely to the desired level and without skin damage.
- The CO2 fraxel laser is the most effective type of laser. Suitable to treat fine and deep wrinkles, but also folds around the mouth. The laser vaporizes very accurately up to the top layer of the dermis. Old connective tissue is replaced by young connective tissue cells and new collagen is produced. Good antibiotic after-treatment and sun protection prevents side effects such as infections and pigment shift.
Tips when you have wrinkles
Below are tips from Dr. Francis Wu
Tip: make sure your skin is 'more acidic'
Research has shown that the ‘ideal’ acidity for the skin is pH 4.7. pH Is the measure of the acidity of an aqueous solution. pH neutral has a value of 7. For example, lemon (acid) has a pH value of 2 and liquid soap (alkaline) has a pH value of 10.
A Korean study investigated the influence of pH and wrinkle depth in 300 volunteer women from Korea, Singapore and Vietnam. It was concluded that factors such as hydration, melanin (pigment), transepidermal water loss (TEWL), sebum and skin temperature influence the pH value. Wrinkle formation decreased significantly as skin pH became more acidic.
Tip: Bakuchiol, vitamin A alternative
If you have sensitive skin and want to use something different, Bakuchiol is an option. Bakuchiol is a component found in Ayurvedic and traditional Chinese medicine. This oil extract comes from the seeds and leaves of the babchi plant. It has traditionally been used for its antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties.
Research shows that Bakuchiol can combat skin aging. It is a good alternative to vitamin A acid. Although Bakuchiol and vitamin A have no similarity in chemical structure, both components stimulate the same gene expression: they activate collagen stimulation and can counteract the formation of pigment spots.
Tip: UV protection
There are two different ultraviolet radiation (UV) that reach the Earth’s surface. Those are UVA and UVB rays.
UVA rays are present with relatively equal intensity during all daylight hours throughout the year, and can penetrate clouds and glass. These UVA rays make up the largest part of the ultraviolet radiation, so more than UVB.
UVA rays are not felt on the skin. These rays cause free radical formation in the dermis, which destroys your collagen and elastic fibers.
3 x UV(A) – Asymptomatic (doesn’t feel it), Always present, Aging of the skin
UVB rays
UVB penetrates into the superficial epidermis and is responsible for our vitamin D production. So for a slow and longer lasting tan. Too much UVB causes redness, sunburn and eventually also skin aging and skin cancer. Unlike UVA, UVB does not penetrate glass. UVB radiation can be up to 1000x stronger than UVA rays.
Tip: Avoid highly concentrated cosmetic ingredients?
Highly concentrated cosmetic ingredients such as vitamins A and C can be more irritating to people with sensitive skin, people using the product for the first time and Asians. The resulting skin irritation can lead to unwanted redness, burning, eczema and pigment spots.
Your skin has a barrier function and works like a funnel. The reduction of wrinkles does not go faster by adding more and more highly concentrated ingredients.
Extra tip: look for airless closed dispensers instead of open cream jars or pipette serum bottles. The antioxidants in these open containers react with oxygen. As a result, the effect is gone faster.
Tip: skin care ingredients
Over the years, people have searched for the secret of eternal youth, but a perfect elixir has not yet been developed. However, technology has made significant progress in skin-improving products.
On the one hand, there is a group of antioxidants consisting of vitamins such as C, E, Niacinamide (vitamin B3), Coenzyme Q10, green tea extract, polyphenols, flavonoids. This group reduces collagen degradation by attacking ROS (free radicals).
The other group are cell regulators, examples of which are vitamin A (retinol, tretinoid), peptides and growth factors. They have a direct effect on collagen stimulation in the deep layer of the skin. This is a gradual process.
Tretinoin stimulates skin cell renewal by accelerating exfoliation and also stimulates young collagen. It takes at least 6 months for a good collagen build-up. The disadvantage is that it irritates the skin at high concentrations of tretinoin, often resulting in redness and burning. It is also not suitable for pregnant women.
The best products against premature skin aging
Below you will find some products that can help you take care of your skin.
- All products have the ideal pH 5 acidity – for good skin resistance and skin barrier.
- Vegan, Zero Plastic inside
- Iconic Elements skincare has been named the Best Holistic skincare line 2022 by EU Business News.
What our customers think of our products
Frequently asked questions about premature skin aging
Vitamin A such as tretinoin or retinol stimulates skin cell renewal by accelerating scaling and also stimulates young collagen. The downside is that it can irritate the skin, causing redness, burning and pigmentation may result. Especially for people with sensitive / eczema skin, it is also not suitable for pregnant women. And it takes at least 6 months for a good collagen build-up.
The basis is daily cleaning your skin 2 x a day, use mineral sun protection filters such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. The filters give the least skin reactions and protect the skin immediately after application.
Ingredients such as peptide, growth factors, bakuchiol, Coenzyme Q10, Astaxanthin or Niacinamide (vitamin B3) are suitable against premature skin aging for people with sensitive skin.
Smearing with collagen enriched cream is trending right now. The problem is that the molecular size of the collagen used (expressed in Dalton, molecular mass expressed in g/mol) is too large to penetrate the skin. Whether it works remains to be seen. Studies has shown that it does not. However, the added collagen can contribute to hydration of the skin.
Iconic Elements Anti-aging cream contains a vitamin C, E and a plant hormone ferulic acid. These 3 ingredients reinforce each other's effects. The anti-oxidant effect is enhanced up to 8 times, much more than if you only used vitamin C or E.
In addition, the product is in an airless dispenser, so contact with air is minimal. This keeps ingredients fresh and active longer.
Customers with sensitive skin or allergies to perfume have a good experience.
