Wrinkles

Dr. Wu's analysis

What are wrinkles?

Wrinkles are visible folds or lines in the skin that occur due to structural changes in the dermis and epidermis. They gradually form under the influence of skin aging, sun damage, and repeated facial expressions. Although wrinkles are a normal phenomenon with aging, they can be cosmetically disturbing for many people. They mainly occur in areas where the skin is thinner or where there is a lot of movement, such as the forehead, around the eyes and mouth. We distinguish between normal skin aging and premature skin aging. This distinction helps in determining the right prevention and treatment.

Normal skin aging

This is mainly driven by genetic factors and often starts to become visible between the ages of 30 and 35. The production of collagen and elastin decreases, causing the skin to lose its firmness and elasticity. At the same time, cell renewal slows down, leading to duller skin and accumulation of dead skin cells. Oil production also decreases, making the skin drier and more susceptible to fine lines.

Premature skin aging

This type of aging is caused by external factors and can already become visible in the twenties. UV radiation is the main cause (photo-aging), followed by smoking, alcohol use, unhealthy diet, air pollution, and mechanical stress such as frequently sleeping on one side. These factors cause oxidative stress and chronic inflammation in the skin, leading to premature breakdown of connective tissue structures.

What causes wrinkles?

The formation of wrinkles is the result of internal biological processes and external influences. Each mechanism contributes in its own way to sagging, loss of volume, and skin structure.

Decrease in collagen and elastin

As we age, the activity of fibroblasts - the cells that produce collagen and elastin - decreases by about 1% per year. These proteins give the skin firmness and elasticity. Their breakdown leads to wrinkle formation, especially in the face and neck.

Exposure to UV radiation

UV-A penetrates deeply into the skin and activates enzymes (matrix metalloproteinases) that break down collagen. This accelerates skin aging, a process known as photo-aging. Wrinkles often appear earlier in people who have had a lot of sunlight.

Oxidative stress and inflammation

Free radicals from sources such as air pollution and cigarette smoke damage cell structures. This leads to low-grade inflammatory processes in the skin that accelerate collagen breakdown and reduce the skin's ability to recover.

Repeated muscle movements

Repeated use of facial muscles causes fine lines that remain visible even at rest. Think of frown lines, forehead wrinkles, and crow's feet. Over the years, the skin surface becomes less resilient, making these lines permanent.

Who is susceptible to wrinkles?

Although wrinkles are a natural part of the aging process, not everyone develops wrinkles at the same rate. The speed and severity of wrinkle formation is influenced by factors such as skin type, hormonal status, lifestyle, and environmental factors.

Women after menopause

After menopause, estrogen levels drop. This hormone normally stimulates collagen production. The deficiency leads to a faster decrease in skin thickness, elasticity, and hydration, resulting in accelerated wrinkle formation.

Light skin types (Fitzpatrick I and II)

People with light skin produce less melanin, making them more susceptible to UV damage. This leads to faster breakdown of connective tissue and thus premature wrinkling with unprotected exposure.

Smokers and people with chronic stress

Nicotine constricts blood vessels, reduces oxygen supply, and slows wound healing. Chronic stress increases cortisol levels, which stimulates collagen breakdown. Both processes contribute to accelerated skin aging.

Genetically sensitive individuals

Some people are genetically predisposed to having a thinner dermis or less active fibroblasts. This makes their skin more susceptible to aging and wrinkle formation, even with a protected lifestyle.

How do you recognize and distinguish pigmentation spots?

How can you recognize wrinkles?

Wrinkles are not always easy to distinguish from dehydration lines or scars. Below you will see the most common forms and characteristics of wrinkles.

Fine lines around eyes and mouth

These occur due to daily mimicry and dehydration. Especially visible when laughing or frowning, but can also remain present over time at rest. They often form as the first signs of skin aging.

Deep grooves in forehead or between eyebrows

Static wrinkles such as frown lines are permanently visible, even without facial expressions. They are caused by prolonged muscle activity in combination with the loss of dermal support structures.

Flat skin folds in neck and décolleté

These so-called gravitational wrinkles are caused by skin sagging and gravity. The skin loses tension and sags downwards, resulting in horizontal lines.

Which skin problems look like wrinkles?

Some skin conditions resemble wrinkles, but have a different cause and treatment method. A good analysis prevents incorrect treatments.

Dehydration lines

These superficial lines are caused by a lack of moisture. They often disappear after hydration and are therefore easy to distinguish from structural wrinkles that are deeper and permanent.

Atrophic scars

For example, after acne. They are often sharply defined and pull inward. Unlike wrinkles, they are not dependent on facial expressions and respond differently to treatments such as microneedling or resurfacing.

Cutaneous elastosis

A sun-damaged skin with a leathery surface and deep grooves, especially with chronic UV exposure. The skin feels tough and thickened - wrinkles are part of this, but the underlying process is different.

What types of wrinkles are there?

Wrinkles not only differ in depth, but also in their cause and location. A targeted approach requires distinguishing between the different types.

Dynamic wrinkles

These occur due to repeated muscle movements, such as frowning or laughing. Initially visible during movement, but later also at rest. Treatment often focuses on muscle relaxation.

Static wrinkles

They are permanently present, regardless of facial expression. They occur due to collagen loss, sagging, and volume loss. Typical locations are the nasolabial fold and marionette lines.

Gravitational ripples

Due to gravity, the skin sags as connective tissue and fat volume decrease. This results in the formation of folds, especially in the neck, jawline, and cheeks. Treatment often focuses on skin tightening or volume increase.

How do you effectively treat pigmentation spots?

What can I do about it myself?

Completely preventing wrinkles is not possible, but with targeted skincare and lifestyle adjustments, you can delay their onset and limit their visibility.

Step 1: Use mineral sunscreen

Protect the skin every day from UV-A and UV-B with a sunscreen of at least SPF 30. UVA is responsible for deeper damage in the dermis, where wrinkles occur. Protection is also important on cloudy days or when indoors with daylight.

Step 2: Support the skin barrier with moisturizing products.

A well-hydrated skin appears smoother and more supple. Use creams with glycerin, ectoine or hyaluronic acid to retain moisture. This reduces fine lines and supports the elasticity of the skin.

Step 3: Add antioxidants to your skincare.

Ingredients such as vitamin C, E, ferulic acid, and astaxanthin neutralize free radicals. By limiting oxidative damage, you prevent accelerated breakdown of collagen structures in the skin.

Step 4: Reduce stress and get enough sleep

Chronic stress increases cortisol, which stimulates collagen breakdown. A regular sleep rhythm, relaxation, and exercise contribute to cell renewal and skin recovery.

What other treatments are there?

In addition to daily skin care, professional treatments can be used to specifically target wrinkles. Depending on the depth, cause, and location of the wrinkles, there are several effective options. Many of these treatments are non-invasive, meaning that no incision or opening in the skin or body is necessary. Therefore, they are suitable for people who want to improve their skin condition without surgical procedures. However, it is important to note that the results of non-invasive treatments are generally more temporary than those of invasive surgical procedures.

What are the wrinkle triggers?

Some habits and ingredients weaken the skin barrier and accelerate wrinkle formation. By avoiding these, you support skin aging in a positive way.

Unprotected exposure to sunlight and sunbeds

UV radiation is the biggest external cause of skin aging. Tanning beds mainly emit UVA, which penetrates deep into the skin and damages collagen.

Smoking and alcohol consumption

Nicotine and alcohol constrict blood vessels, reduce oxygen supply, and dry out the skin. This slows regeneration and accelerates the formation of permanent wrinkles.

Insufficient sleep and chronic stress

Both cause an increased production of cortisol and a decreased production of growth factors that are important for skin repair and cell renewal.

Aggressive cleaning products

Ingredients such as SLS/SLES, alcohol or synthetic perfumes disrupt the skin barrier. As a result, the skin loses moisture faster and becomes more susceptible to inflammation and wrinkling.

Iconic Elements products

The Iconic Elements skincare products have been developed based on scientifically substantiated ingredients, have a skin-neutral pH of 5, and are free from microplastics. Awarded the Best Dermatologist Developed Skincare Brand 2024 and Best Holistic Skincare Line 2022 awards. More about the background and studies used can be found on the respective product pages.

🛈 These products are cosmetic and intended for the care of healthy, sensitive or unbalanced skin. They are not intended as a medical treatment or to replace professional medical advice. For personalized skin advice, we recommend consulting a skin therapist or doctor.

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Product

Description

Firming Booster Serum

14.95

Peptides and ectoine stimulate collagen production and protect against dehydration and oxidative stress. This serum strengthens the skin structure and improves elasticity and hydration – ideal for early skin sagging and fine lines.

In shopping cart

Anti-Aging Cream

14.95

This mild, unscented cream combines antioxidants such as vitamin C, E, and ferulic acid to protect against external influences, such as pollution. Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, a stable fat-soluble form of vitamin C, penetrates deeply into the skin. Together with natural vitamin E, this contributes to a smooth, even, and firm-feeling skin. Suitable for normal to dry skin.

In shopping cart

Sensitive Cream

14.95

Some skin types are more sensitive to external influences and may benefit from extra mild care. This cream contains, among other things, oat extract, jojoba oil, and coconut oil – ingredients known for their nourishing and hydrating properties. The light texture absorbs quickly and is designed to care for the skin without leaving a greasy or sticky feeling. The product supports the natural balance of the skin and contributes to a comfortable skin feeling.

In shopping cart

Spotreducer (AWARD WINNING)

14.95

This cream contains niacinamide and ectoin, ingredients that have been studied for their calming and skin care properties for sensitive or troubled skin. The light formula helps improve skin comfort, without drying out, and supports a smooth, well-cared-for appearance. Suitable for all skin types. In 2016, it won a Beauty Award in Hong Kong.

In shopping cart

Tinted Mineral Sunscreen SPF30

14.95

A sensitive skin reacts quickly to sunlight, making protection essential. This mineral sunscreen with titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and iron oxide is known for its mild properties and is specially developed for sensitive skin. The formula with independently tested and certified SPF30 protects against harmful UV rays and visible light without weighing down the skin. The moisturizing, lightly tinted texture provides broad protection against sunlight.

In shopping cart

Tips when you have wrinkles

Tip 1: Daily protection against UVA is crucial - even in winter.

UVA radiation is the main external cause of wrinkles and skin aging. Unlike UVB, you don’t feel or see it—but it penetrates deep into the dermis and damages collagen and elastin.

This damage is cumulative and silent. UVA is present year-round, even on cloudy days and indoors through glass.

Dr. Wu recommends daily protection: use daycream like Iconic Elements Daycream UVA Filter. During high sun exposure, add a mineral SPF30.

UVA = Asymptomatic, Always present, Aging. Daily protection slows collagen breakdown and helps prevent premature wrinkles.

Tip 2: Combine skincare with nutrition rich in antioxidants.

Free radicals are unstable molecules triggered by sunlight, pollution, stress, and poor diet. They damage cells, proteins, and DNA, accelerating skin aging.

Antioxidants neutralize free radicals and help protect the skin. Ingredients like vitamin C, E, niacinamide, Q10, green tea, and polyphenols reduce oxidative stress, slow collagen breakdown, and brighten the skin.

Apply an antioxidant serum in the morning under sun protection. Combine this with a diet rich in vegetables, fruits, and healthy fats for inside-out support.

Antioxidants aren’t a quick fix—they’re a long-term strategy in anti-aging care.

Tip 3: Cleanse your skin daily, even if you don't wear makeup.

Many people think that cleansing is only needed when wearing makeup, but that’s a misconception. Throughout the day, pollutants, sebum and product residues accumulate on the skin. Even at night, your skin produces waste.

This build-up can lead to clogged pores, oxidative stress, and collagen damage, which contribute to wrinkles. That’s why evening cleansing is essential.

Use a mild, pH-neutral cleanser without sulfates or harsh alcohols. Lukewarm water is best. Don’t forget the neck and décolleté—they age just like the face.

Tip 4: Use skincare with a skin-neutral pH (approx. pH 5) for optimal barrier function.

The skin has a slightly acidic pH (around 4.7), which helps maintain a strong barrier and healthy microbiome. A balanced pH also slows down skin aging—more acidic skin is linked to fewer deep wrinkles.

Still, many daily products like soap or high-pH cleansers disrupt this balance, causing dehydration, sensitivity and collagen breakdown.

Choose skincare with a pH of 4.5–5.5, like mild cleansers without soap or alcohol. Limit exfoliants on sensitive skin to preserve pH. A good pH supports skin structure and active ingredient performance.

Tip 5: Avoid too high concentrations of active ingredients for sensitive skin.

Active ingredients like vitamin A (retinol) and C (ascorbic acid) can reduce signs of aging, but too high a dose or incorrect use often causes irritation—especially in sensitive or Asian skin, or new users.

More is not better: higher concentrations increase risk, not effect. Start with low doses (e.g. 0.3% retinol), apply every other day, and build up slowly.

Consider gentle alternatives like bakuchiol or niacinamide. Always use a moisturizing cream alongside actives to protect the skin barrier. Avoid combining vitamin C with acids or retinoids—this overloads most skin types.

Tip 7: Opt for airless packaging to preserve the effectiveness of active ingredients.

Many active ingredients like vitamin C and Q10 are sensitive to oxygen, light, and pollution. Every time you open a jar or pipette bottle, oxygen enters, causing oxidation and reduced effectiveness.

Airless packaging prevents this by keeping formulas airtight and protected. This extends shelf life and keeps antioxidants effective to the last pump.

Don’t just check the ingredients list—the packaging matters too. A good product in poor packaging loses its power. Jars may look luxurious, but are less ideal for sensitive or demanding skin.

Tip 6: Bakuchiol: the mild alternative to retinoids for sensitive skin types.

Retinoids like tretinoin and retinol are effective for skin rejuvenation, but can cause redness, flaking, and irritation—especially in sensitive, Asian, or rosacea-prone skin.

Bakuchiol, a plant-based alternative, offers similar anti-aging benefits without the side effects. It stimulates collagen and pigment-regulating pathways, despite being chemically different from retinol.

Studies show comparable wrinkle reduction with better tolerance. Bakuchiol is also anti-inflammatory and safe for long-term use.

Note: just like retinoids, consistent use over weeks to months is needed before results appear.

Read our articles about wrinkles here

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