The skincare world is full of trends, often promoted as revolutionary solutions. While some innovations can be useful, others can harm the skin or simply not be effective. By critically examining these trends, you can improve your skin health and make the right choices. Here we discuss skin trends from 2024 that you’d be better off avoiding, with dermatologically grounded insights and alternatives.
Why should we be critical of trends
Trends cater to our desire for quick and visible results, but many of these hypes are not based on scientific evidence. They can lead to overtaxing the skin, a disrupted skin barrier and unnecessary damage. It is important to understand what your skin really needs and to choose a sustainable approach.
Trends that damage your skin more
Excessive use of active ingredients
Active ingredients such as retinol, vitamin C and exfoliating acids (AHA’s and BHA’s) offer numerous benefits, such as stimulating cell renewal, reducing pigmentation spots, and improving skin texture. However, excessive use can lead to skin problems.
Dermatological thought:
- Active ingredients such as retinol and AHAs accelerate cell renewal by breaking the bonds between dead skin cells. Excessive use can lead to the loss of lipids in the skin barrier, making it more vulnerable to environmental factors.
- Vitamin C in concentrations above 20% can promote oxidation on the skin if not properly stabilized, which actually creates free radicals instead of neutralizing them.
Effects on the skin:
- Chronic redness, irritation and flaking.
- Increased sensitivity to UV radiation, which can exacerbate hyperpigmentation.
Dermatologist Dr. Francis Wu advises:
Use active ingredients sparingly and align them with the needs of your skin. For example, retinol can be replaced with bakuchiol, a milder alternative with similar effects. More on Bakuchiol
2. DIY Chemical Peels
Performing chemical peels at home may sound appealing, but it can be dangerous without professional knowledge. Many DIY products contain concentrations, particularly too high ones that are not suitable for home use.
Dermatological thought:
- Chemical peels work by exfoliating the top layers of skin with acids such as glycolic acid (AHA) or salicylic acid (BHA). Incorrect application can lead to chemical burns, disruption of the pH balance, and even permanent scarring.
- The skin barrier consists of ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol. A damaged barrier can take weeks to months to recover.
Effects on the skin:
- Burns, hyperpigmentation, and increased sensitivity.
- Risk of bacterial infections due to a weakened barrier.
Dermatologist Dr. Francis Wu advises:
Always have chemical peels performed by a dermatologist or skin therapist, who masters the correct concentrations and applications. Read more about DIY with safe ingredients.
3. Skin-Fasting
Skin-fasting is a skin care trend where you temporarily stop using all skin care products, so the skin can “reset” and heal itself. The idea is to give the skin some rest from external influences, such as active ingredients and creams, so that it can regain its natural balance. Although the idea of skin-fasting sounds appealing, it is based on some misconceptions about how the skin functions:
Dermatological thought:
- The skin needs support: Although the skin produces its own natural oils and lipids, these are often not sufficient to optimally protect the skin against environmental factors such as UV radiation, pollution, and dehydration.
- Damaged skin barrier: If the skin barrier is already damaged, for example due to excessive use of active ingredients or environmental factors, the skin needs additional support in the form of moisturizing and protective products to recover.
- No magic reset: The skin does not “reset” itself just by being left alone. Without proper support, existing problems such as dryness, irritation, or overproduction of sebum can actually get worse.
Effects on the skin:
- Dry skin: Without a good moisturizer, the skin can dry out, leading to flaking and irritation.
- Worsening of skin problems: Conditions like eczema or rosacea can worsen due to the lack of protective creams.
- Loss of protection: Without SPF, the skin is more susceptible to UV damage, which can accelerate skin aging and pigmentation spots.
- Overproduction of sebum: In people with oily skin, skin-fasting can lead to increased sebum production, as the skin tries to compensate for the loss of moisture and oils.
Dermatologist Dr. Francis Wu advises:
Instead of completely stopping skin care, opt for a minimalist routine, also known as skinimalism. Focus on the basics: gentle cleansing, a light moisturizer for hydration, daily sun protection, and possibly one active ingredient for specific skin problems. A simple and targeted approach keeps your skin healthy without overwhelming it.
4. Ignoring sun protection
Sun protection is often underestimated, especially in the winter. However, UVA rays are present all year round and penetrate deep into the skin, where they break down collagen and elastin.
Dermatological thought:
- UVA rays stimulate the production of free radicals in the skin, which break down collagen fibers and contribute to skin aging.
- UVB rays are responsible for burning, but UVA causes long-term damage and pigment spots. In the Netherlands, the UVB rays are the strongest.
Effects on the skin:
- Accelerated skin aging, pigmentation spots, and loss of elasticity.
- Increased risk of skin cancer.
Dermatologist Dr. Francis Wu advises:
Use a broad-spectrum SPF of at least 30 in the Netherlands during the spring and summer period, such as a mineral-based sunscreen with zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and iron oxide. In the fall and winter period, use a day cream with UVA protection.
5. Excessive layering of skincare products
The idea of applying multiple layers seems appealing, but it can lead to clogging of pores and irritation.
Dermatological thought:
- Excessive products can saturate the skin barrier, reducing the absorption of active ingredients and leading to build-up of residue.
- Some ingredients, such as AHA’s and retinol, can neutralize each other or cause irritation if used together.
Effects on the skin:
- Clogging of pores and acne breakouts.
- Reduced effectiveness of the products.
Dermatologist Dr. Francis Wu advises:
Choose a simple routine with an alcohol-free cleanser, moisturizing cream, and one to two active ingredients.
FAQ on Skin Trends
How do I know if a skin trend suits my skin?
It is important to critically examine whether a skin trend is suitable for your skin type and skin condition. Here are some steps to determine this:
- Know your skin type: Is your skin oily, dry, combined, or sensitive? Choose trends or products that are specifically designed for your skin type.
- Check the ingredients: Look for ingredients that are scientifically proven to be effective and safe. Avoid harsh substances such as strong acids or perfumes if you have sensitive skin.
- Start with a patch test ROAT: Always test new products on a small patch of skin, such as behind your ear or on your forearm, before applying it to your face.
- Pay attention to results: Does your skin improve or become irritated after a few weeks? Stop immediately if you experience redness, flaking or itching.
Which alternatives are safe for my skin type?
Safe alternatives are products and routines that support the skin without irritating or damaging it:
- Droge huid:
- Opt for soft, moisturizing cleansers and creams with ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and ceramides.
- Avoid excessive exfoliation or drying alcohols.
- Vette huid:
- Use light formulas such as gel-creams or serums with ingredients like niacinamide, salicylic acid, clay, and glycolic acid.
- Avoid heavy oils that can clog pores.
- Gevoelige huid:
- Choose pH-neutral products and formulas without perfume or irritating substances. Ingredients such as ectoine and oatmeal extract are soothing.
- Avoid products with aggressive acids or alcohol.
- Rijpere huid:
- Search for products with antioxidants such as Vitamin C, E, and Ferulic Acid, as well as collagen-stimulating ingredients like Bakuchiol or Peptides.
- Avoid excessive use of exfoliants that can dry out the skin.
- Algemene tips:
- Protect your skin daily from UVA, UVB, and visible light with a sunscreen, such as the Iconic Elements Tinted Mineral Sunscreen SPF30.
- Keep your routine simple and consistent – less is often more.
In case of doubt: Get advice from a dermatologist or skin expert, and always start with small changes in your skincare routine to assess your skin’s reaction.
The best approach for healthy skin
A healthy skin starts with a simple, consistent routine tailored to your skin type and needs. In a world where skincare hypes follow each other at lightning speed, it is essential to critically evaluate trends and understand the dermatological action of ingredients. It’s not about the latest trends, but about conscious choices that truly suit you. Opt for products with proven ingredients and keep it simple. Often, a thoughtful routine is all your skin needs. For 2025, the best trend might be: back to basics, with love and care for your skin. Your skin will radiate from it!
Do you want to know more about safe skincare in 2025? Check out our dermatologically formulated products
Do you have questions about your skin routine? Contact us: info@iconic-elements.com