Peptides are a popular and much-discussed ingredient in the skincare world today. And with good reason. Several studies have shown that peptides have some positive properties when it comes to improving the condition of the skin. For example, they can stimulate collagen production in the skin, which can lead to a reduction in fine lines and wrinkles. In addition, peptides can help reduce pigmentation, which is especially beneficial for people with skin prone to discoloration.
But the question remains, are peptides really as magical as they’re hailed in the skincare world? There are still many unanswered questions about the effectiveness of peptides, and much research is still needed to understand their true benefits and harms. In addition, it is important to note that not all peptides are created equal and some may provide more benefits than others.
It is therefore important to have a good knowledge of the different types of peptides and their effects on the skin, so that you can make an informed choice when choosing skin care products.
What is a peptide?
Peptides are basically short chains of amino acids, the building blocks of proteins. They each have their own specific properties and unique structure. It is this structure that determines how the peptide will interact with other molecules in the skin and how it will exert its effect.
When peptides are applied to the skin, they act as messengers that send specific signals to activate or inhibit certain cells in the skin. For example, some peptides stimulate the production of collagen in the skin, while other peptides send a signal to inhibit the formation of pigment.
Because of these different functions, peptides can be used in many ways in skin care. They can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin texture, hydrate the skin and even out skin tone.
Another important aspect of peptides is that they are suitable for people with sensitive skin. Unlike some other active ingredients, peptides are generally mild and have few side effects.
One peptide does not have the same properties as an other!
Peptides can be divided into 4 main groups.
Signal peptides – signal and stimulate collagen production in the dermis. The activated fibroblasts in the skin are stimulated to form collagen.
Enzyme inhibiting peptides – one blocks proteolytic enzymes called matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) and stimulates your skin to produce collagen. Another enzyme inhibitory peptide inhibits pigment-forming tyrosinase activities.
Neurotransmitter inhibiting peptides – blocks neurotransmitters, resulting in, for example, less muscle movements. Think of a kind of topical botox for the skin.
Carrier peptides – transport trace elements such as copper and magnesium, for example for better wound healing.
Properties of a good peptide
For it to work properly, a peptide must meet a number of important requirements.
A very important one, a showpiece of my trainer Professor Bos (AMC – Amsterdam), is that a substance must be smaller than 500 daltons in order to penetrate the skin. Dalton is a molecular weight of a substance. If it is larger than 500 daltons, the substance is too large to penetrate the epidermis. As a result, it does not reach the dermis and there is no effect.
Other peptide requirement is, stability. It should not be so fragile that it falls apart on contact with air, ultraviolet rays of the sun or in a cosmetic product containing a peptide.
Also not insignificant is binding affinity to a cell. Most peptides are linear, also elongated and have some points of contact with a cell receptor. Otherwise, it is a cyclic round peptide that fits better into a receptor and has multiple points of contact (see photo below). Multiple touch points ensure better cell activation and production of, for example, collagen.
So, for example, if a peptide does not bind in the correct cell membrane, the signal will be lost and it will have no effect. Even if you have the best quality peptides and the most suitable cell, the desired effects will not be achieved if the interaction between the peptide and the cell membrane does not go well.
So, while the idea of ”magic” skincare may be an exaggeration, peptides are certainly a promising addition to your skincare routine. With their unique properties and versatility, they can help achieve healthy, glowing skin.
Iconic Elements Firming Booster serum
The Firming Booster serum has been formulated with care, using powerful ingredients that can significantly improve the skin. This serum contains both high and low molecular hyaluronic acid, which optimizes its absorption and distribution in the upper skin layers.
The active ingredients include:
- Bakuchiol: This phytochemical is known for its ability to reduce skin aging and pigmentation. It is considered a mild, non-irritating substitute for vitamin A (retinol).
- White Tea Extract: Derived from the young buds and leaves of the Camellia Sinensis shrub, this extract is rich in antioxidants.
- Cyclopeptide-5: This hypoallergenic cyclic protein, also called a peptide, stimulates biological skin processes, promotes hydration and supports the tissue in the dermis. Together, these ingredients contribute to an effective improvement of the skin.
Firming Booster Serum€49,95
While you are here
Day in and day out, we routinely use the same skin care products to take care of our skin. However, no day is the same. That also applies to your skin, suddenly you have dry, irritated skin, then it’s back to normal and another moment Pimples. Even though your diet has remained the same and you have no other explanations for it.
The effects of estrogen and progesterone on your skin
Estrogen is key for normal skin function. It is associated with the production of collagen, hyaluronic acid, increased skin thickness, improved skin barrier function, maintenance of skin hydration and sebaceous gland activity. There are 3 estrogens: estrone (E1), estradiol (E2) (also found in men) and estriol (E3). In menopause, estrone (E1) takes the upper hand, this imbalance can cause complaints. Excess estradiol (E2) can cause acne. So estrogen does a lot and is quite complex.
The other hormone is progesterone. The effect of progesterone on the skin is less clear. It is believed that progesterone plays a role in skin elasticity, sebum production and, like estrogen, also in skin pigmentation. In addition, progesterone has an effect on skin blood flow.
Read more about: Timing skin care based on your menstrual cycle