Which cosmetic ingredients are the best if you have rosacea?
Rosacea is a common but complex skin condition characterized by redness, visible blood vessels, and sensitive skin. Choosing the right skincare can make a world of difference. In this blog, we discuss cosmetic ingredients that help reduce rosacea symptoms and restore the skin barrier. And we discuss which ingredients you can use and why they work, so you can make a better choice for your skincare.
What is rosacea?
Rosacea is a chronic skin condition that primarily occurs on the face. The diagnosis of rosacea is made based on specific clinical features. To confirm the diagnosis, at least one diagnostic feature must be present, combined with at least two of the main features.
Diagnostic features (1 required)
- Persistent redness in the middle of the face (centrofacial erythema)
- Thickening or coarsening of the skin (phymatous changes)
Main features (minimum 2 required)
- Papers and Pustules
- Flushing (sudden blushing or hot flashes)
- Dilated blood vessels (telangiectasias)
- Eye complaints, such as a sandy feeling or irritated eyes
Symptoms such as a burning or tingling sensation, swelling, and dry skin may be present, but are not considered standalone diagnostic criteria. However, they could provide additional clues in assessing the severity and impact of rosacea.
Although the exact cause of rosacea has not yet been determined, there are a number of factors that likely contribute to the development and exacerbation of the condition. First and foremost, a genetic predisposition plays a role; some people are more susceptible to rosacea triggers than others. In addition, there are environmental factors that can cause a flare-up, such as exposure to the sun, temperature differences, and stress. Diet and certain medications, such as steroids or vasodilators, can also be triggers.
Another important factor in rosacea is a disturbed skin barrier. When the barrier is weakened, the skin becomes more susceptible to irritation from external factors such as pollution and irritating ingredients in cosmetics; this can lead to inflammation, redness, and increased sensitivity. Moreover, it is thought that an overgrowth of the Demodex mite, a natural skin inhabitant, also contributes to the inflammatory response in rosacea.
It is important to understand these triggers and strengthen the skin barrier through gentle skin care and protection against external factors.
More about Rosacea
Cosmetic ingredients for rosacea
Below you will find an overview of the most effective ingredients for rosacea, including their action and benefits:
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3, is a versatile ingredient that strengthens the skin barrier and inhibits inflammation, making it particularly suitable for people with rosacea or sensitive skin. It stimulates the production of ceramides, which are essential for retaining moisture and protecting against irritants. Niacinamide neutralizes free radicals, regulates inflammatory processes, and improves skin texture. With consistent use, this results in a hydrated, resilient skin with less redness and irritation, while being gentle enough not to burden the skin.
Ectoin
Ectoin is a versatile ingredient that protects cells from environmental stress, such as pollution, temperature changes, and UV radiation. It strengthens the skin barrier by retaining moisture and deeply hydrating, which is essential for preventing dryness and irritation. Moreover, ectoin has an anti-inflammatory effect, reducing redness and calming irritated skin. These properties make ectoin particularly effective for rosacea, as it helps to minimize triggers such as dryness and external influences, and keeping the skin balanced.
Allantoin
Allantoin is a versatile ingredient known for its soothing and hydrating properties. It works by softening the skin and reducing redness and irritation, which makes it particularly effective for sensitive skin types, like with rosacea. Allantoin supports the regeneration of damaged skin cells, which accelerates the healing process and contributes to healthier skin. In addition, it strengthens the skin barrier, making the skin more resistant to external influences. Thanks to its mild, anti-inflammatory action, allantoin offers long-lasting relief for reactive skins.
Avena Sativa (Oat) extract
Oat extract is rich in avenanthramides, bioactive compounds known for their soothing and anti-inflammatory properties. These compounds inhibit the release of pro-inflammatory substances such as interleukins and histamines, which helps to reduce redness and irritation, especially in conditions such as rosacea. In addition, avenanthramides provide protection against free radicals through their antioxidant activity, reducing damage from environmental factors such as pollution. The extract also supports the repair and strengthening of the skin barrier, which is essential for a healthy, resilient skin and immediate relief of sensitivity.
Liquorice Root extract
Liquorice root extract contains glabridin, a bioactive compound with potent anti-inflammatory and calming properties, making it particularly suitable for skin types prone to irritation, such as with rosacea. It works by inhibiting the activity of pro-inflammatory enzymes and cytokines, like COX-2 and TNF-α, helping to reduce redness and swelling. Furthermore, glabridin has a antioxidant effect, which protects the skin from free radicals and damage caused by environmental factors like pollution. Therefore, it supports not only the calming, but also the repair capacity of the skin barrier, which is essential for lasting protection and relief in reactive skins. Liquorice root extract can also promote minor pigment fading, which can contribute to a more even skin tone.
Bisabolol
Bisabolol works against inflammation due to its ability to modulate specific inflammation pathways in the skin. It inhibits the activity of pro-inflammatory cytokines, such as interleukin-1 (IL-1) and tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α), which are involved in initiating and amplifying inflammation processes. Besides, bisabolol has antioxidant properties, reducing the oxidative stress often associated with inflammation. It also assists in repairing the skin barrier, reducing the skin’s sensitivity to irritants. This makes bisabolol particularly effective in soothing redness and swelling.
Panthenol (Pro-vitamin B5)
Panthenol, also known as pro-vitamin B5, is a versatile ingredient that is particularly valuable in rosacea due to its soothing and restorative properties. It helps to strengthen the skin barrier by retaining moisture, which is essential for reducing dryness and sensitivity. Panthenol reduces redness and irritation by calming inflammatory responses, contributing to a more even skin appearance. Furthermore, it promotes the regeneration of damaged skin layers, leading to faster skin recovery.
Marshmallow Root
Marshmallow root extract contains mucopolysaccharides that form a protective layer on the skin, reducing moisture loss and strengthening the skin barrier. This provides protection against irritants such as pollution and allergens, reducing irritation and inflammation. Thanks to anti-inflammatory substances such as flavonoids and tannins, the extract can suppress pro-inflammatory cytokines, which cause redness and swelling. Due to these properties, it immediately soothes irritated skin and supports recovery.
Azelaic Acid
Azelaic acid is a multifunctional ingredient with anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and mildly exfoliating properties. It inhibits the production of free radicals, reduces inflammatory mediators, and helps in normalizing the keratinization of skin cells, which prevents pore clogging. Although azelaic acid is effective for rosacea, it may cause more irritation in people with darker skin compared to lighter skin types. It is therefore recommended to slowly increase its use and to properly hydrate the skin.
What to avoid with rosacea?
In rosacea, it is important to avoid irritating substances. Ingredients such as alcohol, perfume, highly concentrated ingredients such as retinol, vitamin C, and fruit acids can further damage the skin and exacerbate redness. Instead, opt for products that are hydrating and soothing, with ingredients such as ceramides and antioxidants.
How do you put together a routine?
Morning
- Gently cleanse: Use a mild cleanser to remove dirt and excess sebum.
- Hydrate: Apply a cream with niacinamide or panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier.
- Protect: Use a broad-spectrum SPF to protect the skin from UV radiation, a known trigger for rosacea.
Evening
- Gently cleanse: Remove makeup and pollution with a gentle cleanser.
- Treatment: Use a serum with azelaic acid or ectoin to reduce redness and soothe inflammation.
- Hydrate: Finish with a rich moisturizer that contains ceramides or allantoin.
FAQ
Does nutrition help in reducing rosacea symptoms?
Yes, nutrition can have an influence. Avoid known triggers such as spicy food and alcohol, and focus on antioxidant-rich foods like berries and green vegetables. Learn more about nutrition and rosacea
Can I exfoliate with rosacea?
Very mild exfoliation is possible, but avoid aggressive scrubs or acids that can irritate the skin.
How quickly will I see results when using these ingredients?
It may take a few weeks before you see improvement, depending on the severity of your rosacea and the consistency of your routine.
Now that you’re here
Couperose and rosacea are often associated with each other, as both have to do with redness in the face. With couperose, visible dilated red and blue veins are usually seen on the cheeks, which gradually appear after your 30th year of life. Although couperose does not cause inflammations like rosacea, it can sometimes be a precursor. Do you want to know more about the differences and how you can effectively treat couperose and rosacea? Then read on in our comprehensive blog.
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